Sunday, February 8, 2015

Rome, Italy

The first view of the Colosseum is simply breathtaking. Remember that it took 'only' ten years to construct this monster, using mostly slave labor from conquered Jerusalem and treasure from the sacked temple there. 

The center of ancient civilization, Rome today is a hectic, loud, busy place that is sort of dirty. Still, the ancient monuments get the heart beating faster and the blood pumping. We will never forget our first view of the immense Colosseum, at night, with all of the lights glowing golden. It is an impressive sight, right along with all of the toppled columns, massive stone blocks, temples both intact and ruined. Rome has a way of drawing you in and holding you. You will definitely need more than one trip to take it all in. 

The absolute must dos: 

The Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Capitoline Hill can all be done in one shot in a leisurely morning and in this order. 
We already sent you a link to an excellent local guide service which is worth every Euro. This link is also below.

After this, James recommends you wander over to the front of the massive monument to Vittorio Emmanuele, the first king of united Italy. It is built to look like the world's biggest Roman temple, and is quite a sight with all of the flags fluttering. He and his wife are buried in your next destination, which you should reach by cab (otherwise you will just wear out your shoes and your energy). Cabs can be found in abundance near a handy ATM over near the tall column erected by the Emperor Hadrian to immortalize himself. (Worth checking out) 

The Pantheon, shot taken in April, 2014

The Pantheon is our own five-star Rome attraction. Nothing compares to this ancient 'Temple to All Gods' converted to a Christian place of worship early in the 4th century under the Emperor Constantine. When you walk inside, past those immense and ancient bronze doors (original, and still working fine) and look up to the see the sunlight streaming through the oculus, well, your breath will once again be taken away. Look around on the marble floor (all original back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries) and see if you can find the teardrop-shaped drain holes. 

All around the square near what the Romans call 'Il Rotunda' are lousy and expensive restaurants. After you wade through the crowds surrounding your next destination, the Trevi Fountain, home to some of Rome's best pickpockets, James suggests heading over to the Spanish Steps (you can walk to all of these, and the signs are good and accurate) for lunch at one of the Trattoria tucked away in the little square to the right of the bottom of the stairs. 
Here is a link to a map: https://goo.gl/maps/BB1RM

Piazza Miganeli
Ristorante Alla Rampa

Good food, nothing fancy and a bonus if you can sit outside.

Next, take a cab (cabs in Rome are not expensive considering the fact that this is the capital city) over to St. Peter's where you may have already purchased advance tickets to the Vatican Museums. 
If so, show your driver your voucher and he will drop you off right near the door. 

Lovely place to watch people, see original art, or just take it all in is Piazza Navona, not far from the Pantheon. (Although cabs are scarce here) The large space used to be a Roman race track for chariots. You can easily see the oval shape even 1700 years later.

For dinner, our favorite place to go is 'La Villetta' which is in walking distance from your hotel. They start seating at 7:30.
They do not have a 'Vino della Casa' (House Wine) here, but their wine list is huge and not at all expensive.


Another favorite is 'Bucatino' down the hill from your hotel about ten minutes walk. Via della Robia 84-86

Your hotel can make reservations for you, always a good idea in the city of Rome. Plus, you just generally get treated better in an Italian restaurant when you have a table reservation. 

The  house wine at Bucatino is rated 'average to poor' by our clients. Spend a little more and select from their extensive, not expensive, wine list. They have an amazing antipasto bar, you just go up and choose what you want, the waiter will note the size of your plate and add to the bill. Not expensive, and really good. One trip only. James heartily recommends the rabbit! 

Other Rome Sights: 

St. Peter's Basilica viewed through a keyhole
Cool and relatively not very visited due to its remote location away from the crowds: 

At night, especially, look through the keyhole of the door that leads to the gardens of the old convent church of the Knights of St. Malta. Read more here: 

http://www.reidsitaly.com/destinations/lazio/rome/sights/knights_malta.html
Best of all this great sight is just a few minutes walk from your hotel. A wonderful way to end your Rome experience. 

Helpful links: 

Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Forum tour:

This company does other semi-private guided tours as well if you are interested. Jenean really likes this tour because it is not too long, no lines, with inside information and access in Colosseum.

Note: The fast track line for the Vatican does not excuse you from having to go through security. Do expect wait times. Do not bring an umbrella or they will take it from you. Do NOT bring a back pack; they are not allowed!

When going from the Sistine to St. Peter's attention, be careful and do not miss the right hand turn to the church entrance. If you do, the guards will not take pity on you and you will have to go and stand in a very long line. Also, there are no toilets once you get out of the Sistine, so be certain to take care of any calls of nature before entering the Sistine Chapel or immediately after leaving the Sistine.


Step by step
Your visit to the Colosseum

You can walk to the Colosseum from your hotel. It will take you about 20 minutes but it is worth it on a fine day to slowly approach this massive wonder of the ancient world on foot. 

Your hotel will provide you with a detailed map, or just enter Colosseum in your CityMaps2Go and let your phone lead the way. 

On the way there you will pass the Circus Maximus. Not much to see here, keep walking and you will soon encounter the remains of one of more than 60 acquaducts that once carried fresh water into the city from the mountains to the east. This is one of the best-preserved sections, leading right into the former emperor's residential area. 

A bit further on, on your left, and you will come to the entrance to the Roman Forum and Palatine. From my last visit to Rome in November the ticket that you bought for the Colosseum should also allow entrance to the Palatine and the Roman Forum. Just look on your voucher. 

However, you do not want to visit the Palatine and Roman Forum just yet. Why? Because it is a one-way pedestrian route and the exit is far away from the Colosseum. 

Keep walking and you will encounter the massive arch of Constantine. Pose for photos. Then keep going to the main entrance ot the Colosseu, dead ahead, you can't miss it because you will see a huge line. 

You get to enter via the shorter line, just look for the signs. You will be coming to the booth where they hand out the audio guides. These are returned at the exit, which is on the other side of the Colosseum. 

After your visit to the Colosseum then you will want to back track and go to the entrance of the Palatine and the Roman Forum. Allow at least two hours for this magnificent sight. Wander and wonder at the remains of ancient Rome. Exit via the arch of Septimus Severus and through the ridiculously tiny turnstile. Lord only knows why the Italians think it is important that people exit one at a time.
Wonder how a person weighing 400 pounds gets through this?

Enjoy Rome!